Nakhon Ratchasima, or “Khorat,” is a large province on the northeastern plateau and is like the gateway to other provinces in the Northeast. It is 259 kilometres from Bangkok and has an area of around 20,494 square kilometres. The province is rich in Khmer culture and has a long history. It is famous for the highly revered Khun Ying Mo (Ya Mo) statue in the middle of town. It also has beautiful nature, with many forests, mountains, waterfalls, and reservoirs. Furthermore, it is well known for a variety of quality handicrafts that visitors can choose from, particularly the popular clay pottery products of Dan Kwian.

       Nakhon Ratchasima used to be the site of several ancient prehistoric communities that continued to grow when the Dvaravati culture came in and later when the Khmer culture replaced it. An important prehistoric site is Ban Prasat. Traces of Dvaravati and Khmer cultures are scattered throughout the province, particularly at Amphoe Sung Noen and Amphoe Phimai. Nakhon Ratchasima has been a key city since ancient times as an administration centre. It was responsible for many northeastern cities in the past. Even now, its status has remained unchanged in that it is the Northeast’s main transportation hub and economic centre.

       Dan Kwian Earthenware Village is 15 kilometres from the city on Highway No. 224 (Nakhon Ratchasima-Chok Chai). The area used to be a rest area for caravans trading between Khorat and Cambodia. The Mun River flows through it. Villagers use clay from the riverbanks to make pottery and have continued doing so for many generations. Nowadays Dan Kwian is famous as a centre that produces beautiful pottery that has a variety of strange designs. However, the locals still retain the original techniques of making pottery and using a type of black clay that is the identity of the area.

       Prasat Phakho is an ancient Khmer sanctuary at Tambon Krathok, 29 kilometres from the city on Highway No. 224. Continue on to Highway No. 2021 for 3 kilometres and you will see the site on the right. This Hindu religious place is made of white sandstone and originally had 3 buildings, but only 2 remain today. A horseshoe-shaped moat surrounds the site. The entrance is in the east. A lintel influenced by the Baphuon culture of ancient Khmer was found here, dating from around the 11th century. It is now in Phimai National Museum.

       Wat Ban Rai is in Tambon Kut Phiman, about 60 kilometres from the city. Take Mittraphap Road to the 237-km marker, turn right past Kham Thale So and Nong Suang to Dan Khun Thot. From Dan Khun Thot Hospital use Highway No. 2217 and drive for 11 kilometres. Wat Ban Rai is a famous temple of the province as it is the residence of the revered monk Luang Pho Khun Parisuttho. There are many worshippers who come to see him daily.

       Petrified Wood Park at Ban Krok Duean Ha, Tambon Suranari. Take Highway No. 304 (Nakhon Ratchasima-Pak Thong Chai) for 19 kilometres, turn right into Suranari University of Technology (second gate) and drive for 3 kilometres, turn left onto the Mittraphap-Nong Pling city bypass and drive for 2 kilometres to Wat Krok Duean Ha. The area has a collection of over 10,000 petrified wood pieces. Petrified wood was unearthed here just beneath the surface to 8 metres underground.

       The wood is of various sizes from pebbles to rocks with a diametre of over 50 centimetres and some pieces are more than 1 metre long. The wood comes in many colours in the same stone and in different ones. They are aged between 1 to 70 million years old. Provincial authorities plan to make this area a petrified wood park and the first museum of its kind in Asia to conserve these prehistoric treasures for future generations to study.

       Chang Phuak Shrine is a small shrine on the northern part of the city moat, at the corner of Manat and Phon Saen Roads. It houses a Takhian Hin tree stump that was the site where the people of Phu Khiao tied elephants for inspectors to look at before presenting them to King Rama I for his transport.

       City Pillar is at the corner of Chom Phon and Prachak roads. This Chinese-style shrine houses the city pillar that is worshipped by Thais and Chinese. Built in the reign of King Narai the Great during 1656-1688, both the shrine and city pillar were made of wood. The inner eastern wall is covered with fired clay tiles with raised designs of the battle of Thao Suranari and the way of life of Thais in ancient times.

       Maha Wirawong National Museum is in Wat Sutthachinda opposite the provincial hall. It displays items that Somdet Phra Maha Wirawong, the ex-abbot of Wat Sutthachinda, collected, as well as artefacts that the Fine Arts Department found in Nakhon Ratchasima and nearby provinces and donations. Most items are Buddha images, including stone images of the Khmer period, images from the Ayutthaya period, bronze images, earthenware, ancient utensils, and woodcarving. The museum is open during 9 a.m.-4 p.m. from Wednesday to Sunday. It is closed on public holidays. The entry fee is 10 baht. For information, call tel. 0- 4424-2958.

       Nakhon Ratchasima Zoo is 18 kilometres south of the city on Highway No. 304 (Nakhon Ratchasima-Pak Thong Chai), then take a left onto Highway No. 2310 for approximately 1 kilometre. If travelling by bus from the city, use air-conditioned bus No. 1415. The zoo has an area of 545 rai (218 acres) and is one of the most modern in Asia. The enclosures are large and the zoo has landscaped each section so it matches the habit of each animal. Most of the animals here are from Africa. Of note are penguins, seals, African elephants, rhinoceros, cheetahs, lions, zebras, and giraffes. There is also a reptile building and a hornbill garden. The zoo is ideal for biology study and relaxation. The area is decorated with lovely flowers. A trailer takes visitors around the zoo, and there are bicycles for rent. The zoo is open daily during 8 a.m.-6 p.m. The fee is 10 baht for children, 30 baht for adults, and 30 baht for four-wheel cars. For information, call 0 4435 7355, 0 4421 6251-3 or visit www.zoothailand.org.

       Prasat Phanom Wan is in Ban Makha, Tambon Pho, around 15 kilometres from the city on the Nakhon Ratchasima-Khon Kaen Road. A sign on the right shows the way on a road 5 kilometres more. This is an interesting Khmer sanctuary. It is believed that it was built in the 10th century. Later during the 13th-14th centuries, a stone building was built over it. From inscriptions found at the site, it is known that the sanctuary was used in the Hindu religion and later became a Buddhist site. Although most of it is in ruins, there is a clear form present, like the square main pagoda facing east and a tiered pagoda in front, as well as a path linking the two structures.

       To the southwest is a building of red sandstone called “Prang Noi.” Inside is a large stone Buddha image. A roofed sandstone walkway and a laterite wall go around the sanctuary. A Gopura (a sanctuary doorway or porch) in the form of a tall tower is situated in all 4 directions. Around 230 metres east of the sanctuary are traces of a moat and an earth hill that was the site of another Khmer building called “Noen Oraphim.”

       Pratu Chum Phon is behind the monument. It is an old city gate built during the reign of King Narai the Great in 1656. The king commanded that a strong city wall be built. Engineers from France, then an ally of the country, designed the city plan. Nakhon Ratchasima at that time was an outpost in the shape of a rectangle of 1,000 x 1,700 metres. The western Chum Phon Gate is the only 1 of 4 city gates that still stands. The other three gates have been rebuilt. Chum Phon Gate is built of large stones and bricks and covered with plaster. The top is a watchtower made of wood with a tiled roof and decorated in the Thai style.

       Thao Suranari Monument is a memorial to the Thai heroine called ‘Ya Mo’ by locals. Built in 1933, it is located in the city centre. People from other provinces who visit Khorat and locals usually come to pay homage here and ask for blessings. The statue is made of black copper. It is 1.85 metres high and is dressed in regalia in a standing posture. The right hand holds a sword and the statue faces west towards the capital of Bangkok. The monument base holds her ashes.

       Thao Suranari was originally Khunying Mo, the wife of the assistant governor of Nakhon Ratchasima. In 1826, Chao Anuwong of Vientiane had Khorat under siege but Khunying Mo rallied villagers to fight againt Chao Anuwong. After the battle was over, King Rama III promoted her to Thao Suranari. Every year during 23 March to 3 April, the people would hold a festival to honour her bravery.

       Ban Prasat Archaeological Site is at Moo 7, Ban Prasat Tai, Tambon Than Prasat. From the city, take Highway No. 2 (Nakhon Ratchasima-Khon Kaen) for 44 kilometre and turn right for 1 kilometre. If going by bus from Bangkok or Nakhon Ratchasima, take a line going to Khon Kaen, Udon Thani, Nong Khai, or Kalasin. Get off at the 44-km marker and take a hired motorcycle into the village.

       Ban Prasat is the second archaeological site (the first was Ban Chiang) to be set up as an outdoor museum. Findings indicate that the area was once inhabited by a prehistory to early history community. A community of the Dvaravati and Khmer periods thrived here 1,500-3,000 years ago. There are 3 pits that have been landscaped and open to the public. Discoveries include human skeletons and many pottery pieces that were dug up from various levels. They tell us about human evolution and community beliefs and culture of generations of people living in the same area through the years.

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