| History |
Laos is squeezed between vastly larger neighbours. First created as an entity in 1353, when warlord Fa Ngum declared himself the king of Lan Xang ("Million Elephants"), the kingdom was initially a Khmer vassal state. After a succession dispute the kingdom split in three in 1694 and was eventually devoured piece by piece by the Siamese, the last fragments agreeing to Siamese protection in 1885.
The area east of the Mekong, however, was soon wrenched back from Siam by the French, who wanted a buffer state to protect Vietnam and set up Laos as a unified territory in 1907.
Briefly occupied by Japan in 1945, a three-decade-long war was triggered when France wanted to retake its colony. Granted independence in 1953, the war continued between a bewildering variety of factions, with the Communist and Vietnam-allied Pathet Lao struggling to overthrow the French-leaning monarchy. During the Vietnam War (1964-1973), this alliance led the United States to dump 1.9 million metric tons of bombs on Laos in what was later known as the Secret War.
In 1975, after the fall of Saigon, the Communist Pathet Lao took control of Vientiane and ended a six-century-old monarchy.
Initial closer ties to Vietnam and socialization were replaced with a gradual return to private enterprise, an easing of foreign investment laws, and admission into ASEAN in 1997.
Despite being less than two hours by air from the westernized hustle and bustle of Bangkok, life in Laos has continued in the same way it has for hundreds of years, although things are now slowly beginning to change. In the mid-90s the government reversed its stance on tourism, and then declared 1998 "Visit Laos Year" - but despite their efforts and all Laos has to offer, monks still outnumbered tourists throughout the country.
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| Culture
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Despite its small population, Laos has no less than 68 tribal groups. About half are Lao Loum, "lowland Lao" who live in the Mekong valley. Officially, this group includes the Lao Tai, who are subdivided into numerous subgroups. Lao Theung (20-30%), or "upland Lao", live on mid-altitude slopes (officially defined as 300m to 900m), and are by far the poorest group, formerly used as slave labor by the Lao Loum.
The label Lao Sung (10-20%) covers mostly Hmong and Mien tribes who live higher up. There are also an estimated 2-5% Chinese and Vietnamese, concentrated in the cities.
Laos is officially Buddhist, and the national symbol, the gilded stupa of Pha That Luang, has replaced the hammer and sickle even on the state seal. Still, there is a good deal of animism mixed in, particularly in the baasii (also baci) ceremony conducted to bind the 32 guardian spirits to the participant's body before a long journey or other significant undertaking.
Lao custom dictates that women must wear the distinctive phaa sin, a long, patterned skirt, although tribal groups often have their own clothing. The conical Vietnamese-style hat is also a common sight. These days men dress Western style and only don the phaa biang sash on ceremonial occasions
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Pha That Luang, Vientiane - the national symbol of Laos |
| Climate
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Costs |
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Laos has three distinct seasons. The hot season is from March to May, when temperatures can soar as high as 38°C. The slightly cooler wet season is from May to October, when temperatures are around 30°C, tropical downpours are frequent, and the Mekong floods.
The dry season from November to March, which has low rainfall and temperatures as low as 15°C (or even to zero in the mountains at night), is "high season" (when the most tourists are in the country).
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US$20 a day is a good rule of thumb, though it's possible to get by on as little as US$10. A basic room with shared bathroom can be as little as US$2 in Vang Viang or as much as US$8 as in Vientiane. Meals are usually under US$5 for even the most elaborate dishes. A bus from Vientiane to Vang Viang costs US$6; the slow boat from Luang Prabang to Huay Xai costs US$12 for both days.
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| By plane |
The international airports at Vientiane and Luang Prabang are served by national carrier Lao Airlines and a few others, including Thai Airways and Bangkok Airways. Due to lack of competition prices are comparatively steep, and for Vientiane it's considerably cheaper to fly to Udon Thani in Thailand and connect to Nong Khai and the Friendship Bridge via shuttle service directly from the airport (40 minutes); from here Vientiane is just 17 km away.
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| By land |
| Foreigners can enter/exit Laos overland from/to Cambodia, China, Thailand and Vietnam. Foreigners cannot enter/exit Laos overland from/to Myanmar. Visa on arrival for Laos is currently NOT available when entering from Cambodia overland, while it`s possible to get a Cambodian VOA when travelling in the opposite direction.
The most popular crossing for tourists is the Friendship Bridge across the Mekong between Nong Khai (Thailand) and Vientiane. It's also possible to cross the Mekong at Chiang Khong / Huay Xai (with easy bus connections to Chiang Rai and points beyond on the Thai side), Nakhon Phanom / Tha Khaek, Mukdahan / Savannakhet, and elsewhere.
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| Eat |
Lao cuisine is very similar to the food eaten in the north-eastern Isaan region of Thailand. The staple here is sticky rice (khao niaw), eaten by hand from small baskets called tip khao. Using your right hand, pinch off a bit, roll into a ball, dip and munch away. The national dish is laap (also larb), a "salad" of minced meat mixed with herbs, spices, lime juice and, more often than not, blistering amounts of chili. Unlike Thai larb, the Lao version can use raw meat (dip) instead of cooked meat (suk). Other favourites include tam maak hung, the spicy green papaya salad known as som tam in Thailand, and ping kai, spicy grilled chicken.
In addition to purely Lao food, culinary imports from other countries are common. Khao jii pat-te, French baguettes stuffed with pâté and foe (pho) noodles from Vietnam are both ubiquitous snacks particularly popular at breakfast. Note that foe can refer both to thin rice noodles (Vietnamese pho) as well as the wide flat noodles that would be called kuay tiow in Thailand. |
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